How to Make a Takedown Bow – Complete Guide

I wanted to make a takedown bow and I finally did it!

I built my own raisin from 3 different types of natural materials to give me a great look once finished. I used skis as my arms because of the flex, and then my own weapons were much easier to form, but I can now try.

In each step I have included a whole group of photos to make things easier to see.

This project wasn’t that difficult overall.

Necessary materials

Steps to Make a Takedown Bow

1. Making the Riser

The first step is to design the appearance and functions of your riser (middle wood section) in your bow. I began by looking at bows online and trying to make basic drawings of what I thought was fine. Basically, you just want to be certain of a few big items. They are as follows:

– Total length of risers: If the full length of my bow rising is 16 “minimum to 24”

– Where the arrow is to sit: When done in the center of the riser, the arrow should sit

– Handle position: the handle below the arrow location should be your handle.

– Armed angles: Most bows are 15-20 degrees angled, but I will change my angle to 10 degrees so I will use cross country skis, so that the skis are upright. The explanation is because they are very versatile, and I want to get as much strength from these weapons as possible.

2. Gluing

Wood is not very hard to choose for a bow riser and only 1 key rule is necessary but it is probably going to work in all honesty.

Using rough timber. – Hard Wood can make for a smoother and stronger finished product, with hardwood typically associated with beautiful grain.

I went to the Lee to collect four wooden bits.

So I bought delicate wood that you don’t need, no hardwood works just fine. I needed a fancy riser
I halved the Zebra and Purple heart and rolled them up together, making sure that the glue was fixed for 24 hours.

We didn’t completely flat the four pieces after we un-clamped, so I used a clamp and a handstick to flatten them until the top and bottom of the other pieces were connected to the Padauk.

There could be little gaps around the edges after all the glue had dried, which I filled with a clear drying self-mixing epoxy to fill the gaps in the wood.

3. Cutting

Draw the template for your riser and put it on your wood block. Then trace the pattern with a pencil and then go over it with a sign, so when you cut and see the dust, it is much easier to see. In order to simplify the cutting, I used a rule to draw where I would like to make my cut. I’m not the proprietor of a ban saw so I have to use a puzzle harder to cut smooth lines.

I did a variety of small cuttings to make the cutting much smoother perpendicular to my raised line. My cut is really blocky and has seen marks everywhere, but all right we will sand that bad boy and make it look pretty.

4. Sanding & Shape-up

This is not really an easy way, then a gray sandpaper and a power tool. I’ve just got a belt sander, so it’s turn the sand upside down and sand it up.

I’ve just worked on the riser before I started taking the form I needed.

I used a wood rasp to sand where the sander belt could not use it when I got it around.

Sanding hacks

5. Construction of Arms

I’ve used the weapons to use a couple of ancient cross country skis. These I have for $20 in my local re-use center.

Measure your skis from the tip for strong spring power anywhere from 20″ 26″ I cut them from the tip at 23.5.”

I put out the arch to see how it all looked.

6. Attaching Arms

Arms are easy to attach, but correct so that these measures are followed

Go purchase your hardware attachment;

2 bolts @ 3-inches

2 bolts @ 2-inces

4 cleaners

4 nuts of the wing

Every hardware is 5/16

The holes are made larger enough by means of a hole cutter bit from the back of the raiser to match the head of the boom. Drill the holes deep enough, so that the bolt can be 1/4-1/2″ just past the riser

Use a nail set to hammer in bolts after all the holes are drilled, then connect your arms and straighten with a rinsing machine and a wing nozzle.

Function in a few notches with a round file to match the string. Set the notches away from the center of the arc to be a rest without the string dropping off.

7. Testing & Finishing

I essentially have a working bow at this stage but before painting it needs to be checked. After testing and knowing that its working great, we can make it look a little fancy.

After ensuring it all suits well, make the last sand
Add some varathane or stain then riser. So I went right to varathane, I wished the natural wood colors.

8. Paint

Hang it up and use several paint coats. Try using a paint with a certain amount of flexing agents so the arms have to flex quite a bit.

It looked nice to have the bow all white, but I wanted to have a sense of Canada added so I had some information.

Congratulations! The Bow is ready! Enjoy and have fun.